When we were at Victoria falls we heard that there was little to no rain in Angola during their rain season. So the water flow in the falls was 25% less than normal. So we were told.But we couldn’t tell. It was just as magnificent as we thought it would be. The spray and the mist from the falls was so large that in some parts during our walk we literally got totally drenched. It was like raining buckets.
But people here feel the difference. We felt it when we were flying over the Okavango Delta. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and is the largest inland delta in the world. It stretches over 15000 square kilometers. Our charter flight from Savuti to Pom Pom island gave us a 45 minute ride over the delta giving us magnificent views of it from the skies. It was wonderful and every bit as described in documentaries and on the net. We could also see how it’s dried up due to lack of water.
The place we were going to stay was called Pom Pom camp situated in the Pom Pom island, a private concession area in the heart of the delta. Usually the camp is surrounded by water. But this time was not so. The area was totally dry and the usual Mokoro rides, we were looking forward to experiencing, was no longer available because of the dry water ways and lagoons. We were somewhat disappointed. But the good thing is that more wildlife can be seen around as a result. Plus we were able to drive over areas which we could not have driven if there was water. So all in all it’s ok. You get some, you loose some.
But one of the good sights on our last day of game drives was that we saw water coming in. The floods from Angola were making their way into the delta. Because the delta is flat it takes days, weeks and even months for the water to spread. The little canals dug by hippos are a help for the water to spread. But it will take at least a month, if at all, for the water to surround the camp, according to Pat the resident Manager.
We also saw first hand the effect of lack of water has on wildlife. Hippos were having a hard time bathing. There were small little ponds that have become very muddy and stinky that provided crowded pools to many many hippos, fish and crocodile. The fish can be seen wriggling for water and space. Fish eagles were having a feast for they had easy prey. The crocodiles were out in the open. The elephants were being chased away by the hippos. There was also bush fires which was not very pleasant.
But yet the wildlife seem to flourish. I don’t think the real effect of lack of water is felt yet. There were plenty of dried up lagoons and ponds that seem to still carry some moisture. On the last day of our game drives we saw that water was starting to come in from Angola floods. It was so very interesting to see how slowly but surely water seem to make its way into the little water ways, canals and ponds. We found a large pod of hippos in one of the large ponds/lakes that was recently created by the floods. There were hundreds and they seemed very happy to be in fresh water and not stinky, muddy and crowded puddles.
So looks as if there is hope for the Delta. This has been a place we’ve been waiting to see. I must say what we experienced was beyond anything we could have wanted. There is a saying “you may leave Africa but Africa will ever leave you” and I think that will hold true for both of us.
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