Chasing the Big Five

The Big Five are the Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Rhino and Buffalo. It’s what we came to see. I didn’t expect to see Rhino because it’s pretty rare. But on the first day our guides did try to chase a white Rhino. It’s tracks were there but we never came across it. Apparently the Rhino moves pretty fast. It can walk about 5km in 30 minutes. I thought that was pretty fast for a large creature but that’s part of the reason why it’s difficult to spot them. One minute they are here and next minute they are gone! Well perhaps we’ll see the Rhino another time on another trip. But we were very satisfied to spot the other 4 in abundance.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen that many lions and leopards in such a short duration. The leopard is harder to find than the lion apparently. So when we founds them on our first day at Savute it was jubilation. But then we spotted two in Pom Pom and another had killed a Lechwe and stuck it on top of a tree for security 😁 We saw its paw prints around the wall way to tenet but we don’t come across it. I won’t complain about it. I don’t think I’d like to walk into a leopard. As much as I love them and admire them, it has to be from the Jeep. Just too intimidating. Our guide Tabo is an experienced one who has been doing this for 22 years. He said he’d come across lions and leopards but you just give them space and never make them feel threatened or cornered. He said “remember they are just as much as scared of us as we are of them” No one wants an encounter. Anyways we didn’t have one and I was fine at that!

The leopard is very different to the lion. Of course we all know that but it’s always wonderful to see them in their own habitat. It’s much smaller in size. It’s paws are small and so is it’s head. They are avid climbers and solitary creatures who hunt on their own. Lions on the other hand are large and heavy looking.  They also command much respect by just being themselves! No wonder they are the kings of the jungle. The male lion is a treat to look at. Considering how intimidating and strong they are they behave just like our home cats. I think it’s adorable. Of course that’s as long as you are inside the Jeep. Tabo said if we just as much put a foot out, they will immediately charge the Jeep and attack everyone inside it 😲 well we didn’t test that. 😜

The elephant is everywhere. They have a matriarch. The matriarch is the oldest female in the herd. She leads everyone to water, food and safety. Young males who are born to the herd are chased after they become teenagers so they don’t inbreed with their sisters. The little elephants can’t use their trunks but have to learn to use it in time. I thought that was so cute. You can see them wagging and wriggling it like some alien thing stuck to the front of their face. It’s funny. Apparently the lion can kills baby elephants so the herd is very protective when there are lions around. 

The Buffalo is the ugliest of the big 5 and looks the meanest. They are apparently the most the dangerous and unpredictable. Unlikes all the others it’s not possible to read their body language, even to get out of the way when they seem annoyed or angry. For they look angry all the time. When you drive close they run away but only for a little distance and then stop and look back. All of them. With their big horned head turned keep looking for a while and then they lose interest. We saw a dead buffalo hunted by 4 lions and later on feasting on its intestines. Gruesome site but that’s what it is like. One of the lions pulled at the buffalo gut and the strength of its pull was so much that the entire buffalo was tossed left to right. You see them in herds comprised on hundreds. Apparently when the buffalo runs low on testosterone they move to a place where there is water and food and spent the rest of his life unless first eaten by elephants. Sometimes they group with other like single aging males and form a small group for security purposes. It’s always good to stick together for the security is in the numbers 😲😬 I guess some humans feel the same too 😅😜

So we saw 4 out of the big 5 on number of occasions. It was a treat to see them in the wild. The only interactions between them was seen at the waterhole when the lions came to drink water where the elephants usually hang out in the evening. We got to the waterhole and there was a large herd of elephants including some babies. A few minutes later 7 lions walked in a single file. Apparently animals walks in single files in the wild. So do the lions. As they walk you can see how unhappy the elephants became. The lions had one thing in mind and that was to drink water. They had killed a warthog earlier and how wanted to quench their thirst. They all sat together side by side drinking water. It was a site to behold. They did not threaten the elephants but the elephants felt unhappy and maybe even threatened. A couple of the young bulls seem to want to charge but never to cause a full on confrontation. The lions always moved away when an elephant charged but didn’t seem to want to escalates it further. But they never left the waterhole. Once elephants retreat they’d regroup and drink again. It was so funny to watch. It’s instinct that animals will not fight. Because there is a chance to get hurt or even killed. They will do that as a last resort. Isn’t that funny? I think humans differ because I feel we, the highly intelligent lot, fight even when we know we can get killed and get hurt for more trivial things. Anyways that would be a separate blog. 

Day 10/11 - The Dry Delta

When we were at Victoria falls we heard that there was little to no rain in Angola during their rain season. So the water flow in the falls was 25% less than normal. So we were told.But we couldn’t tell. It was just as magnificent as we thought it would be. The spray and the mist from the falls was so large that in some parts during our walk we literally got totally drenched. It was like raining buckets. 

But people here feel the difference. We felt it when we were flying over the Okavango Delta. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and is the largest inland delta in the world. It stretches over 15000 square kilometers. Our charter flight from Savuti to Pom Pom island gave us a 45 minute ride over the delta giving us magnificent views of it from the skies. It was wonderful and every bit as described in documentaries and on the net. We could also see how it’s dried up due to lack of water.

The place we were going to stay was called Pom Pom camp situated in the Pom Pom island, a private concession area in the heart of the delta. Usually the camp is surrounded by water. But this time was not so. The area was totally dry and the usual Mokoro rides, we were looking forward to experiencing, was no longer available because of the dry water ways and lagoons. We were somewhat disappointed. But the good thing is that more wildlife can be seen around as a result. Plus we were able to drive over areas which we could not have driven if there was water. So all in all it’s ok. You get some, you loose some. 

But one of the good sights on our last day of game drives was that we saw water coming in. The floods from Angola were making their way into the delta. Because the delta is flat it takes days, weeks and even months for the water to spread. The little canals dug by hippos are a help for the water to spread. But it will take at least a month, if at all, for the water to surround the camp, according to Pat the resident Manager. 

We also saw first hand the effect of lack of water has on wildlife. Hippos were having a hard time bathing. There were small little ponds that have become very muddy and stinky that provided crowded pools to many many hippos, fish and crocodile. The fish can be seen wriggling for water and space. Fish eagles were having a feast for they had easy prey. The crocodiles were out in the open. The elephants were being chased away by the hippos. There was also bush fires which was not very pleasant. 

But yet the wildlife seem to flourish. I don’t think the real effect of lack of water is felt yet. There were plenty of dried up lagoons and ponds that seem to still carry some moisture. On the last day of our game drives we saw that water was starting to come in from Angola floods. It was so very interesting to see how slowly but surely water seem to make its way into the little water ways, canals and ponds. We found a large pod of hippos in one of the large ponds/lakes that was recently created by the floods. There were hundreds and they seemed very happy to be in fresh water and not stinky, muddy and crowded puddles. 

So looks as if there is hope for the Delta. This has been a place we’ve been waiting to see. I must say what we experienced was beyond anything we could have wanted. There is a saying “you may leave Africa but Africa will ever leave you” and I think that will hold true for both of us.

Savuti to Pom Pom

Pom Pom was our last stop. Then we’d head back home. Again we boarded one of those tiny flights. This time we had a couple who were with us at Savuti and the woman was someone with bad air sickness. The ride was a bit bumpy and we had to make a stop to drop them off at another camp before we headed to ours. There were wildfires ablaze in the Okavango delta. Apparently it was a dry delta due to lack of rain. 

But we loved getting a glimpse of the delta from up above. The planes don’t climb a lot so you can see things pretty well. The ride was about 40 minutes. Must say that I wasn’t still totally happy with the tiny planes but ‘gotta do what you gotta do’ 

As usual our guides were waiting to pick us up from the airstrip. This time there were two Tabo (and different one, plump and short) and Jonas. He was the tracker.

Pom Pom camp is an island. But because of dryness this time there was no water. That also meant we couldn’t do ‘mokoru’ rides. It’s a luxury camp. The main area includes the sitting, reception, dinning and camp fire. It’s open to the wild and the wilderness. Animals if they chose to can walk right through the main hall. 

Then comes spread to left and right are the camps. The entire place occupies about 12 -15 people. The camps are more like luxury cabins. Built on stilts since on water, the structure is made of wood and then the walls are all made of material. The shower is an out door one. So we realized there was no way to shower in the night because the temperature drops so much and even though it might be hot water you’d catch a cold in a hurry and I was having a really bad sore throat. 

In the night you can hear the sounds of hyena, elephants and all kinds. Unlike in Savuti this place is in the middle of the park with no fences or walls. So you truly are at the mercy of the park. We clearly heard elephants just around the tent we were in. Here the escorts were only in the night. In the morning we had to walk by ourselves. One day we found leopard footprint right along the path we were walking. On a previous day there was a bush buck carcass was left on a branch of a tree couple of tents from ours. So we knew a leopard was on the premise. It was half eaten. Must say a few minutes walk felt like forever. 

I think we really liked this place because it was the closest to nature and the animals we could get. As scary as it was I might do it again, given the chance. 

Savuti Safari

Savuti was flat dry land. Sand was from the Namibi desert and you get a good jolt when you sit in the back seats. We kind of liked it and it’s perched up so you get a good view. The first day in Savuti we saw a lioness and a well fed leopard. That was the first time we saw a real lion and leopard in the wild and it simply takes your breath away. 

Why people want to go hunting for them is beyond inhuman and cruel. They are beautiful, majestic creatures simply getting about their own business. They mean no harm unless they are threatened. And why is that so different to us? We are a species that mean harm even when we aren’t threatened. So we are essentially the crazy animals. 

So the lioness was sitting on an ant hill and Tabo saw it. She just sat there without any fear or aggression. Just got up so she could adjust her sitting posture. But otherwise totally oblivious to an entire four wheel drive full of nutty humans (6) watching her in total silence with flickering cameras. Of course the guide would say a thing or two about the animal and The crazy thing is that these creatures though they are wild, look well groomed. Their costs shine in the light, not mattted at all. Their faces unless covered in blood from a hunt look perfect. They are also never out of shape. Perhaps towards the leaner side but we never came an obese one. Later in the evening we came across the leopard. It was well hidden in the bushes with a bulging tummy.  

We spent a lot of time. I think we were the last Jeep to leave. And it was well after the leopard got up and walked for some distance out in the open before disappearing. But we followed him right next to it and got some amazing pictures and videos. My husband had the professional camera so I had plenty of time for my eyes to take things in and I made sure I gave myself that time. I didn’t want to spend my time looking at things through a lens. 

So I was fortunate to make eye contact with a lion and leopard. Boy that scary and I just couldn’t sustain it because of fright. They have sharp stares. The lions eyes are like an orange shade where as one of the leopards had steely grey ones. I love them.

Another day we were watching elephants at the waterhole and a half a pride of lions (about 8) turned up after a kills and made their way to the hole for some water. The elephant herd was not pleased. They had going ones. But their didn’t dare start a fight and neither were the lions interested in a fight either. The elephants gathered one side and the lions on another. From time to time the elephants came trumpeting with their trunks up in the air as if were to charge...but it was only to warn. The lions would back away but no sooner father again and start lapping at the water. It was hilarious. But also made us appreciate how intuitively they are smart to defend only. 

One of the most interesting creatures is the wilder-beast. It looks like something from Harry Potter. I had seen them on countless documentaries but had completely forgotten until I saw. The first time we came across them was from a distance and I was the first to notice and Tabo moved a bit closer. But they don’t stay still. 

Another day we came across the lions preparing to hunt. They are barely visible in the brown grass, but from time to time little blobs move. Well spread apart.

Another day we came across the same group while chasing a honey badger. They were simply playing with each other, we followed them the entire morning. It’s funny how they walk in single file. Apparently for protection. 

Of we saw many other wildlife too but most travel to Africa to see the Big 5. And we have been 4 by now excluding the Rhino. We also missed cheetah. For another day perhaps ....

Day 9 & 10 (Savuti)

I am writing this day 9/10 entry today as I sit in lockdown. As I was going through my notes from last year I realised that I had opened note pages but had not made any entries...but that's okay. Because I remember the events as clearly as today....at least the once I am about to write. 

So Tabo was to be our guide during our stay at Savuti. He was older, thinner but seems kinder. Had a weather-beaten look on him but has the best smile. Tabo apparently meant 'lion' according to him. I didn't doubt him. 

The Lodge at Savuti was one of a kind, luxurious one. We wanted to stay here...just because we could. It was limited accommodation. We got to know a family from the US with three of their grown children and their spouses (well except one)...then there was a couple from UK who had travelled in Africa extensively. They loved telling their stories at night around the campfire just before dinner and drinking lots of wine....I don't think they were really interested in listening. After the first time, I kind of stayed away from them....I simply wanted to absorb the African nights, its sounds and sights. I did't want to listen to second hand narrative. 

After the first night, a newly married couple from California joined. They were young. Then there was a man and a woman traveling together but not together...if you know what I mean. They were older. These four were assigned to our vehicle for day 2 & 3. They were very talkative. But what's interesting is that you cannot have your mouth opened for too long without the dessert sand getting in your nose, throat and wherever open. I think they got quite a bit of it in the first day that they were all having bad cough by the second. Ranil and I had a good laugh....it was funny. 

Our days were scheduled. We get up early morning at 5.30am. Get down for a quick bite by 6.15. Then off at 7 am looking for wildlife. It's freezing at night in Botswana. So you need to cover up life for winter with the early morning wind and sand. Need to over ears, nose and mouth as well. We get blankets and hot water bottles to keep ourselves warm for the first couple of ours of the day. Then the day warms up by about 9am. We get back by 11am for brunch. It's a sumptuous meal followed by exchanging stories of the morning outing. Then off to our cabins for much needed showers and rest. You literally don't have time for showers in the morning. Then we sometimes napped until 3.00pm when we get high tea and off we went on the evening game drive which lasted till about 6.30/7, depending on who you were chasing and who you encountered on the way. Once home, we are escorted to our cabins for cleaning before dinner. Even though Savuti lodge was secured by an electric fence, the guides still take us to our rooms at night and come for a pick up in the morning. The lodge is deep in the Chobe national park home to the Big 5 and all other wildlife. We are simply in their territory and no-one takes a chance. I get that. Then we have drinks by the campfire and exchange stories and also watch animals that come to the waterhole. The night sky is so clear that you can see the stars so clearly. Then some entertainment from the staff, followed by a delicious meal and off to bed soon after.

This is a typical safari day. We loved it, except for the sand. But that's a small price to pay for the beauty that surrounds you. It literally is so vast and quiet that you really don't need to talk much, except for the fact that most humans aren't capable of keeping their mouths shut. The first night we were at Savuti, we woke up in the middle the night to the sounds of lions roaring. It was like thunder. Distant but distinct. The guides said the lions could have been a few miles away. Well they are loud and ferocious. It is also bloody freezing at night. There is no heating only blankets and the draft from the roof gave me a cold after the second day. It was nasty. Coupled with sand and dust it became a bad sore throat which lasted until I got back to the States. But I lived to tell te stories so it seems unimportant looking back. 

Day 8/9 (Kasane to Savuti)

We had to fly a 5 seater charter flight from Kasane to Savuti. It was the tiniest plane we had ever flown. I was a bit nervous. I get nervous flying period. A small plane didn’t put my mind at ease at all. But what choice do I have. So we got on. Well before we were to take off the pilot said the begging was a bit bumpy but he would climb a bit to make it smooth. After about 10 minutes I thought perhaps he forgot to do that climb after all. It was bumpy and I think partly it was because we were used to flying in small planes. Apart from the pilot and the two of us there was one local who was flying to a different hotel. She didn’t seem bothered by it at all. So I kind of assumed this must be typical for a charter although it failed to put my mind at ease. I tried to play a game to get my mind off of it but that didn’t works because of the wobble. Then I resorted to my meditation practice of watching my feelings. That was the only way I could fly the rest of the 20 minutes out of a 40 minute ride. 

Being with my emotions be it positive or negative helps quite a bit. I’ve trained myself over the years and I find that it’s more comforting than to get distracted. In fact distraction doesn’t work for me much. It’s like being told a lie when you know it’s a lie. Just doesn’t work. So I prefer the bitter truth. Even if it’s hard it’s better to be with it than tell a lie and feel worse twice over. 

Surprisingly the landing was smooth. The airstrip was a gravel one and I literally thought we were landing ahead of the runway. Well there is a first time for everything I guess. I was just happy land in one piece and happy that I didn’t get sick. But we have two more charter flights ahead of us. Perhaps it’s best to have had some experience flying in these teeny tiny planes, which get tossed about by the wind. 

It also made me think how much trust we place in others and things. I don’t think we quite realize it. If we did, some of us might freak out and some of us might feel grateful. We also have some great videos that will remind us of this for a long time time...or until the next time. 

Chobe Food Drama

The stay at the Marina lodge in Chobe got off to a not so good start. Our in room locker didn’t work and we had to change rooms giving us barely enough time to catch our afternoon boat ride. To make matters worse Ranil didn’t like the food that was there for lunch. He likes his food and doesn’t appreciate when he doesn’t get it considering he’s paid a premium price.

The evening food was good for me but Ranil said the prawns were just like what they had in the afternoon. Also the lady who was serving the table messed up his drinks order and that didn’t go down well.

By the second day evening, he was really not happy. He had complained to the front office about the food. Then in the evening there was no buffet instead they were serving ala carte in the restaurant. We had better hopes, I guess. Cause we were throughly disappointed. In fact without my knowing Ranil complained to our travel agent. 

Things really went down hill from there because I got stomach flu. Had diarrhea a couple of times in the morning along with a slight fever. I had to skip my afternoon game drive that day. So everything got escalated and we were to leave the next day to Savuti anyways. 

The worse for me was not that. Neil our travel agent had spoken to the hotel and asked that the GM meet and apologize to us to next day before we left. He had also demanded a full refund. But the duty manager who is a woman and who was nice enough to take the complaints. So she comes and tells us that the GM isn’t able to talk to us because he isn’t wearing his uniform, whatever that is. 

I thought that was not really nice of him. After all he is responsible for the hotel and he should t leave his staff to take all the heat. Anyways that was that. I had one more bad poop and I’ve been fine since, thank goodness. We were to fly a charter that day and I didn’t think I could do it in a bad tummy. But all worked out well and we were able to leave the “issues” behind. 

Days 6 & 7 (game drives in Chobe)

We’ve been in Botswana near Chobe National Park for the last two days. It’s been interesting day the least. We’ve had 3 game drives in the park so far and one boat cruise in the Chobe River. 

We’ve seen hundreds of four-legged creatures and birds. Elephant, hippos, giraffe, Buffalo, Impala, Kudu, Honey Badger, Jackal, baboons,  red lechwe, monitor and crocodile. Birds we’ve 

seems include

The lion made a brief appearance by crossing the road but we only saw them from a distance. I could only see legs and body. Two of them. No sign of the leopard. 

It’s just been a fun two days. It’s amazing how beautiful the animals are and how they behave in their natural habitat. I can watch them again and again and not get bored. They have such unique personalities and their behaviors are not that much different to that of humans.

Yesterday we came across a herd of elephants and there were many young ones. One in particular was very restless. I think it got tired after a while and laid on the mud. Probably to rest but soon after wanted to get up. But that was a struggle. It just didn’t know how to and of course like all of us was learning. I think the effort he exerted was so much that he sent out a loud fart 😂 everyone gathered to watch them burst out laughing but the little one didn’t know and went about his efforts to get up from the mud.

Hippos are lazy. They lie in pods. A number of them together is called a pod of hippos. Some of them were loser males, which means they have lost their right to mate against another stronger bull. Now they are eating grass in the marsh trying to get bigger so they can have another go at winning a mate.

Baboons are hilarious but at the same time a real menace. They are everywhere in abundance and are out and moving all the time. There were lots of little babies to be seen being carried by their moms or piggg backing on them.

I really like the Kudus. A type of an antelope but like an elk is big and majestic and has spiraling antlers. I think they look beautiful. Impalas are like deer but with antlers that won’t grow if they break them. There were many of them. A single male has about 30 females. Those males who aren’t successful having a harem form a bachelor club 😜 too funny much like the men. Then they have to fight themselves or a leader in order to secure their right to mate with 30 or so females. 

Today morning was predominantly spent chasing after lions. They are elusive creatures and therefore hard to spot. Everyone flicks in their 4x4s to see them. The commotion would make anyone hide. So we only saw parts of two lions from a far. I don’t blame them. The funny thing is that they command so much respect and fear that all animals send warning signs. So the trackers can know that there are lions around. But finding them is a different story altogether. I felt bad for the guides. Also for some people who really wanted to see them. I did too but you know what they are cats and big ones at that. They like us have preferences, moods. So I get that they don’t want to sit by the roadside making a spectacle of themselves. 

The buffalos are nasty looking. But Ranil and I wondered why they were part of the big 5. After all they are just buffalos right? Before we get to that let’s talk or the big 5.

Many many years and decades ago men who would hunt named the big 5. They are the most difficult to hunt by food, as per guides. If you hunt them you must make sure you kill them the very first instance. If you miss or injure them they will hunt you down. No mercy. Apparently if two people went to shoot elephants and only one off them pulled a trigger to kill a member of the herd, the other will remember you for 20 years and if the two were to encounter any member of herd they will kill the one who pulled the trigger 😲

So why the buffalo. Apparently out of the 5 they are the meanest for no reason other than they just happen to not like you at the time. One of the guides said that with all the others in the big 5, you can gauge when they get angry. Their moods are visible so you have time to get out of the way. But with the buffalo there isn’t such a mood gauge. One minute they look passive and docile and the next minute they are charging you. So the unpredictability or it makes them hard to kill and to make matters worse they travel in large herds. 

Oh there are the big 5: lion, elephant, rhino, leopard and buffalo. We won’t be seeing any rhinos because most have been poached and the rest have been transferred to safe places. 

It’s very interesting to learn about each of the animals and their behaviors and also see them in their natural habitat. I’ve really enjoyed the 3 game drives we’ve had.

I couldn’t go for the 4th one because I got a bit of a stomach flu and felt ill and pukish and feverish. So Ranil went on his own and I stayed to get some rest.

Tomorrow we are off to SavutI. Another part of the Chobe park where there more dry land with low bushes, making it ideal for spotting wildlife. We are taking a charter flight from Kasane to Savuti tomorrow morning. Hopefully I’d feel a lot better than today. 

Day 5 - Botswana

A couple of months before we were to travel to Africa, I saw that Botswana plans to life the elephant hunt ban. So I read up on it. Apparently the population had grown so much that they are becoming destructive of human crops and other stuff. So the locals are not happy and the government was under pressure to do something about it especially to the elections around the corner. But they were also keenly aware that it might have a negative impact on tourism. Botswana has been known for its conservation efforts. This is also the reason why we decided to travel to Botswana. So I was kind of disappointed. 

Then a few days before I left I saw that they had actually lifted the hunting ban of elephants. I think it’s a big mistake. Yes we have to stop them from destroying human crops, properties and livelihood. I am all for it. But it cannot or should not be done through hunting. 

I really didn’t have a solid reason as to why not until I was flying to South Africa. 

It occurred to me that elephants are some of the smartest animals next to humans. I have read somewhere that after a human and maybe an ape, elephants as babies have to learn to be an elephant. So that means it requires training and learning. They also have memories that span decades. They also grieve their dead as you can see from elephant grave yards. They are also very strong. 

Combined all of that, I think if we start hunting them, it’s only a matter of time they will learn that they ate being hunted. They will also most likely recognize that they are being hunted by humans. I think this is where the danger is. If they put these two together I think it might pose a huge risk to humans one that far supersceeda the threat we have now. Right now it’s only the locals. Going forward it could be any human including those who are tourists. 

So I feel people should find a way other than hunting then down. I mean aren’t human population one too many now?! How would we feel if someone start hunting us because we pose a threat to the long term well being of each other and the planet? How do we decide which one to go? Which member of the family to be put down? Would you chose a family member if you were made to make that choice? Or how would you feel if someone did that for you? 

I think it’s time we stop devaluing life no matter which form it appears in. Life is precious no matter who it is. Even a small ant doesn’t want to die or be hurt. It might not have a strong enough cognitive skills to realize and respond the way we do. But they sure feel the pain. I also don’t believe for a second that God created everything for the human consumption. First of all I don’t think God would be that stupid or selfish. I also don’t think He/She will give sole power to a group of beings. I think it’s the selfish nature of us humans that’s has manipulated even what God will and will not do. 

So we should take a pause and reflect what other ways we have to reduce the growing impact of over population of elephants. Surely we are capable enough to think and come up with alternatives other than hunting? Or is hunting the most convenient because it also promises money coming into Botswana through hunting permits etc. I think we always ought to come up with a compassionate way of handling these things. I think we forget that we are not the only ones who think and feel. We are not the only ones who feel loss and grief. Others too. If we are causing that to anyone else, no matter what shape and form they come in, then we are putting ourselves out there for the same to happen to us. Life is funny and it has a way of boomeranging on you. What goes around comes around. Circle of life and if all these philosophical stuff is mambo jumbo to you, read Newton’s third law which is for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction! 

Day 4

Today morning was a treat. We saw many wild life - bush buck, impala, ox and birds. Yesterday evening we saw two elephants. They all come to the water hole. It’s fascinating to watch them in their one way of being. Also we, without a plan, was able to be here for the vulture feeding time. Everyday at 1pm they feed the vultures. It’s part of their conservation effort to save vultures. Right about the time hundreds of vultures start to gather in the skies. When the guy goes out to put the meat out, they fly down and flock around him in a half circle. I think it’s because the other half are crowded by human spectators. Even when the meat if thrown they don’t come to take it until the guy leaves. They just patiently or rather impatiently wait and once the guy leaves suddenly flocks and attack’s the meat. As they scoop in for the meat we could get a pacifist smell from the vultures. Must have been vulture smell.

The conservation project is because vultures are endangered species. I didn’t know that. I thought there were too many of them. They are the great scavengers and cleaners if carcasses that they help in spreading infectious diseases from animals to human by eating dead animals. 

But for a number of reasons that I cannot remember specifically why they are dying. Partly because of cyanide and other chemicals injected into the bodies of animals by farmers. When the animals die the vultures feed on them. Sometimes they are killed right there. Other times the mothers take feed to the young and then they die or they dies as a result of a parent dying. He also mentioned that over generations the vulture egg shell can get soft so that before the chicks could hatch the eggs crack. Many of these reasons have contributed towards the decline of the vulture population. 

Day 3

The nights in Victoria falls come with a lot of noise from the dwellers of the bush. Elephants,  maybe dogs or hyenas can be heard through out the night. The skies are so clear that you can see the starts splattered all over. Reminds of Temons comments referring to the stars as a bunch of fire flies. They are so clear.

Waking up to the sunrise was a quiet affair. Nothing is more soothing than the quietness and the coolness and the beauty that surrounds you. It’s a perfect place for meditation or even a monastery. Nature literally absorbs you. I find that so refreshing. I feel like my mind and body is healing with each breath I take.

It’s also a great place to bond. In fact traveling to remote parts in the world and of nature has helped Ranil and into strengthen our relationship. We aren’t just people who are married, we are also each other’s best friends, guides, coaches, critics and a shoulder to lean on. It is also helped by the fact that we travel by ourselves and hardly ever with anyone else and certainly not in groups. It’s difficult to spend a few weeks removed from everyone and everything and enjoy one another unless there is a strong foundation of love, trust, companionships than is mutually enjoyable. Also you do not have distractions to take a hard look at each other. Your are forced to deal with another human as much as your own self. Only a meditator will understand what it takes to learn to live with yourself in a profound and compassionate way. 

We feel our travels have greatly contributed towards the well being of our relationship. It’s has deepened it and broadened it. I feel that we’ve been blessed in so many ways. I feel life has blessed us and we always make it a point to give back to it. Be it through the work that we each do the causes that we work for and contribute toward we feel it’s necessary to give to life in one way or the other. 

Gratitude and Privilege

Ranil and I have travelled quite a bit considering we are relatively young. We done all the continents except Antarctica. We’ve done multiple counties within regions and visited some of the most beautiful and remote places on earth. Each time we go, we are reminded of what a privilege it is that we can do what we do. It also asks us to be humble and grateful for all that we get to see and experience.

Nature is majestic. There is no power that parallels nature and what it offers. If you are someone who believes in a God it will feel like you are in His/Her presence. We don’t believe a God. But we feel the power of nature whenever we travel. We are reminded again and again that we are only a small speck in this world and that there are things that are more powerful and beautiful than you can ever comprehend. It also tells me that we are also very much part of that greatness but that is a choice we have to make. 

We are the very fabric of the nature that surrounds us, if we allow it to to be. We are fed and nourished by it. To me it minds me of our own birth, life and death and how much beauty and meaning we can inject into it if we chose to be part of the greatness that’s in front of us. 

We were standing in front of the Victoria Falls today and I had shivers, like I do whenever I’m in the presence of nature with a clear presence of mind. We are grateful that we get to recognize that we are it and it is us. 

Whenever I am surrounded by nature I find that I am healed. It doesn’t happen in cities but when there is plenty of space unhindered and unobstructed by building and things and covered in man made noise, I feel that I feel better physically and even if I’m not I feel uplifted in spirits and absorbed into the vastness that’s nature! I find that fascinating. For years I called myself a city dweller or even a city girl but over the last few years I feel like I want to move away from that hustle and bustle. Maybe not all the time but some of the time to allow myself to feel the power of all that isn’t man made.

We’ve come to rely on our ability to manipulate things and beings. Also we seem so sure of ourselves and how we are able to carve out our surrounds to meet our goals / needs. I find that to be a bit disturbing. Nature allows me to see that there is not a lot within our control. That there is a course /a path that nature takes that whether we like it or not we ought to give into. I feel that more when I travel. But that doesn’t bother me. In fact it makes me feel relieved. But when I’m at home I can feel fear and agitation creep in to my head. Even through I don’t know why, i attribute it to the fact that nature has a way of reminding us of what is beautiful can also be ugly, what is dangerous can also be gentle, what is born dies, no matter how where you are in the food chain or hierarchy you all end up having to give that up through death or sickness or simply because it’s no longer your time. These reminders soothes me. I don’t know why and how and perhaps someday I’ll understand or maybe I won’t. But that’s ok, I just know there is something that I feel when i travel to remote places surrounded by nature, that is soothing and calming and yet a stark reminder of how limited our times is; how imperfect we are, and how one can be perfect in its imperfections. 

To these I am grateful. Because traveling opens up my way of looking at things differently because I have to, because nature makes you do so in a fierce yet but a natural way. I am grateful that it shapes me. I am grateful that it teaches me. I’m constantly aware of it and therefore is incredibly respectful of it. Nature has to be respected....even revered. For without it I won’t be here and I will not feel nourished and healed again and again . 

Joburg to Victoria Falls

Took the flight from Joburg to Victoria falls. Very short flight and as we were preparing to land we could see in the far distance the mist rising from the Victoria falls. The international airport was a tiny little speck in the middle of the African wilderness. It was interesting.

We are the Victoria safari lodge and it’s beautifully done. Has that rustic wilderness feeling to it. Right in front of the hotel is a water hole. We were barely there for an hour when we spotted some impala, elephant, birds and a waterhog. It was interesting to say the least.

Then off we were on our Zambezi River cruise. Had our first sightings of hippos, elephants, crocodiles and birds (Egyptian geese, plover?! And a kingfisher) 

So far people have been fun and easy to hang with, I mean the nationals. They are friendly easy going people.

Africa - Day 1 (Johannesburg)

Today we got to Johannesburg, South Africa. This is our first time in the continent of Africa and we are excited to experience it in the new two weeks. 

Getting here was tough for I was recovering from first a hamstring strain and then a neck strain. As always my body has something up its sleeve and lob while I got a head cold on our way from Chicago to London and now in the process of having sneezing fits and headaches. Wasn’t even sure how I’d be able to do a day tour of Johannesburg which we had planned months ago. 

But I pulled through some now. 

Going to see the Mandela house, apartheid museum were two of the highlights of the day. Although we could barely keep our eyes opened during the first half of the day we still managed to get a feel for the turbulent history of South Africa and it’s path towards a more equal and unified country. 

It is indeed disturbing to say the least to see how the local communities were treated by the Dutch, the British and the French. They came for the gold and diamonds. But used the locals as slaves and never shared the profits of what they took from the locals and their inheritance. Almost 30 years after apartheid was abolished, I still feel the oppression of a bygone era lingering in Johannesburg.

Our guide was a while English man who has turned into a local. He speaks 7 languages out of which 4 are local African languages. He’s pretty much at home here. We had a good lesson in history as he drove us through the streets of the city. Also we got to ask many questions. It was interesting to learn how the society and laws have moved to give the local black communities more right and freedoms. It was very interesting to note that most blacks get their education free while the white are made to pay for their education. Anyone who earns below a particular wage also gets free healthcare while all others have to pay for it. Listening to my guide I felt that there is a feeling of reverse discrimination taking place. Priority for jobs are given to blacks. But partly because they are cheaper than hiring highly qualifies white. 

There is much poverty despite these efforts and the governments that have been in power have not been in service of the people, unlike the visions set forth by their great Nelson Mandela.

It was interesting going through the museum. I felt Mandela’s presence in all aspects of its quest for freedom. He felt like a man who had a visions and went for it. He fought for what he believed and made it his mission to remove apartheid. But I am no longer sure if that vision was passed down to later generations. Or perhaps in the struggle for power, greed obscured what was a hard fought battle over decades with much sacrifice. One thing I found fascinating was that Mandela remained on the list of CIAs most wanted terrorists list until he died (or was it two years before he died anyways) I was shocked at that. I mean the man won the Noble peace prize?! Apparently Mandela was friends with Fidel Castro and Castro helped ANC movement. So that didn’t bode well with the Americans!! Such narrow minded hypocrisy. I mean the whites oppressed and suppressed the blacks and use them for slavery. Some were tortured and killed. But none of them were taken to task by the Americans but boy did they declare the guy who fought for his right to be free, his people’s right to be free, a terrorist. What a joke. And oh so typical. 

Anyways it was interesting.

We also ate some local foods. Corn (pap) is a staple diet amongst Africans. It’s a substitute for rice which is an expensive items apparently. 

Soweto (south western townships) was also interesting. It’s mostly developed for the miners as lodging. What’s most interesting is that right across from them is an area called the “Beverly hills of Joburg”. What a contrast going from single storey dwellings to mansions. 

It was a day for much discussion for both of us. The history here is dark and brutal. Unemployment is at around 30%. Apparently when apartheid was in force the unemployment was around 7%. Mostly because the international community imposed sanctions on South Africa and as a result made the local manufacture their own stuff but once apartheid was removed the sanctions lifted and everything started to flood in from outside that the inside manufacturing was lost and along with it the jobs. Sometimes it’s such an irony how life gives but also takes. It’s difficult to say something is good without looking at the long term interplay of things and their outcomes.

Day 1 has been interesting but also exhausting. We got back around 3 and slept for a couple of hours only to get up to have dinner so we could take our malaria pills. Oh the delights of travelling to Africa....malaria, Hep A and typhoid....and now a full blown cold. As a I said life has a way of balancing things out.

Tomorrow we are off to Zimbabwe, Victoria Falls. Let’s hope all goes smooth. We catch a flight in the morning. 

Africa 2019

Its been almost a year since we travelled to Africa. We visited South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe during our 'just over two week' tour. We spent most of our time in Botswana on safari. It was fabulous. Its hard to believe all that time had passed. In the next number of blogs I am going to post what I wrote while I was traveling. We fell in love with the places, people and mostly the wildlife. We had seen so many wildlife documentaries and dramas about African continent but having all that come alive in front of your eyes is truly unforgettable and incredible. 

We were fortunate that we did it last year cause we are still in lockdown this year. We almost toyed with pushing it back but thought "what the hell' we've thought about it for a few years and let's just do it'. Thank goodness that we did. 

I remember the first time I saw a lion...it was a lioness sitting on an ant mound. I was speechless and breathless at the sometime. She was magnificent in the almost setting light. So clam she stayed there in her little world while our large vehicle with seven human circled around her....taking countless pictures. Tabo, our guide for our time in Savuti was a thin, dark man...seems almost too passive but boy does he come alive in the presence of wildlife. He also kept tasing me the whole time because I had made my intentions clear as to what I wanted to see...as he picked us from the gravel air strip he wanted to know what we've seen and would like to see...So I said "lion, leopard, cheetah and zebra was a must'....He was amused...and kept saying the chances as 50/50. I think my reaction to that amused him even more. But by the end of the first tour on our first day,,,we had seen all except cheetah and they eluded us the entire trip. But that' ok because we see it as an invite to go back. 

Anyways in the next 10 so so blogs you''ll read about my experiences in Africa. When we got back we just went back to our routines that I never found an appropriate time to post the blogs without it looking like totally out of context. So I never tried...but now it seems like the right time. So here we go. 

Night and Day

People are getting antsy now that they have been in lock down for nearly 6-8 weeks. But in the US its not like the Chinese lock down. People are encouraged to stay at home but they can still go out to do essential businesses like to pick up groceries, medications etc. Of course it's very restricted compared to pre-COVID. But now people seem to want to get out. There have been demonstration and protests in certain cities in certain states. Most violating social distancing policy that has been in effect. 

I have seen some of the protests online and on TV. I have also looked at the signs and posters they have bee holding. "Live free or die", "freedom is essential', 'reopen economy', 'fear is the real virus', 'If ballots don't free us bullets will', my body my right to work', 'America land of the free'.... and on and on and on...I don't know if it's true but they say that the conservatives are predominantly driving these protests. But you can see quite a lot echo what the President says so perhaps it's accurate. 

America is a weird place. When you look at America from the outside, it looks like a shiny new toy that you wish to own. But then again when you arrive here, it's not quite the same. I find that there are is such dichotomy here. On the one side, there is such an emphasis on freedom, liberties and the right to do this and that but at the sometime it's enjoyed by a few. There is progressiveness and yet there is an overwhelming desire for the past, traditions and how one must stick to what and how it was once. There are social liberties but not for all, or not desired by some states. There seem to be a great sense of suspicion of the federal government despite the fact they have been elected by the people. There is an array of conspiracy theories, that are sowed and believed by a good proportion of people. And I don't know who they are, which party they belong to or where they come from. But I see that about America. And to me it's an irony. 

During this time of the pandemic, it's something that has been in the forefront, at least to me. Perhaps because I am not from here and I have lived here for only a certain period of time. I have also lived and worked in a few other countries both developed and developing. So I have may vantage points to see America that most average American seem to lack...some haven't even travelled outside their own state they live in let alone the country!

Whichever the way I look, it's baffling. The same people, who don't support abortion, are seen with signs "my body, my right to work". But when it comes to a woman choosing to have a baby or not (even in the case of rape) her body is not her right...but suddenly now it's your body and its your right?! Selfishness?! People are saying their freedoms are being violated....?! I am confused....I always assume the greatest freedom we have is to live and breathe. But yet in this country there are quite the number of people who support death sentence in a heart beat....so you violate someone else freedom willingly and yet can't wait at home because you may get sick or even die if you go out...or worse you might get someone else killed? I find its pretty selfish. Also it's stunning that there are miles and miles of vehicles lined up to pick up food from food pantries and yet they boast to be the wealthiest and the greatest country on earth. I also heard that when the emergency declaration first went out, that the biggest sold out items were guns and ammunition!? They can't buy food but can buy guns?! Or who are these people? I just wonder for myself.

There seem to be quite a bit of mistrust in institutions and establishments in this country and I don't know why? And yet they quote the constitution or the Bible but yet there is mistrust and a great need to take matters in to your own control....People seem to invoke "God' so frequently and yet don't forgive, yet don't want to surrender their will to that of God. At one point (because we went through Easter) people flocking to churches, or even pastors encouraging mass gathering and holding such in the middle of the pandemic...I always believed God was wherever you were...or perhaps not. I didn't know that one had to go to a church to pray to God or to confess...also after all if you believe it's Gods will then wouldn't it be safe to assume that God wanted this? That perhaps there is a reason why we have this pandemic...we don't know because we are mere mortals but its part of the big design isn't it? It begs the questions. 

I have been watching these events unfold with great interests...partly it's amusing and partly I feel sad that we humans who have the inordinate capacity to change and see so stuck, seem so lacking in intelligence and even of faith. 

Locked down

We've been in lock down for almost 8 weeks now. We don't have much to complain about, yet. We are fine so far...so are our families and friends. We haven't lost jobs or lost loved ones as a result of the pandemic. We haven't had the need to run to a food bank or a hospital, yet. So as far as we are concerned we are fine. I am not one to complain about being at home anyways. 

But I cannot say the same for others. More than 65000 people have died and over a million has been sick in this country. That's not good. Its crazy that we have been brought to our knees by an unseen virus. We have no answers yet other than to maintain physical separation to reduce the spread and hope that if you contract it, you will not be seriously sick or worse die. 

In a world where we give so much importance to technology, money, power suddenly we have no answers other than to stay put and hope for the best. Nature is powerful. If anyone doubted that in the past, I hope they think twice now. If anyone felt that they had power over nature and natural elements, I hope they think twice about it. Its also ironic that at the sometime price of oil tank like never before. In fact at one point it was in the negative. 

I don't know whether to laugh or cry at time. I am a deeply spiritual person and have long recognized the power of nature and our own limits when it comes to controlling the elements within and outside of ourselves. I am happy to abide by them and respect them. It's not a weakness...I don't have that attitude. It's an acceptance of the inevitable. I don't feel powerless as a result of a victim....it's opposite.

I feel empowered in the knowledge that I am part of something greater than myself. That there are powers that are beyond my control, no matter my feelings about them maybe. That I am subjected to those no matter what I feel about them, the timing of them. That includes sickness and death. Sickness, aging, death are part of nature and therefore an integral part of our human existence. I don't profess to understand the gamut of it or to have come to its acceptance. But I know it to be an inevitability. Just that understanding alone brings me a sense of peace. 

This time has been pretty challenge for most to say the least. But for us, it's been somewhat less because of our spiritual inclinations. We have been lucky to have spiritual teachers in our lives at this difficult time. They have continued to touch our lives, deepen our appreciation for the fragility of life, change our perspective and attitudes to make it easier on ourselves and help us fine gratitude for all that we have rather than NOT have. They have also over the years helped us find deep and meaningful solitude. We are not sacred of solitude. Being alone isn't a problem for us. Not being connected isn't a problem for us. This is because we have a different perspective towards 'being lone' and 'connectedness or lack of it.'

If there is anything that has stood true during this time is that understanding. None of us has to got stir crazy. A new word to my vocabulary. I didn't know what it was until someone told me/us. 

Being by ourselves doesn't have to be a painful experience. The reason that it is because we don't know how to and we haven't had the necessary practice for it. From the time we are born we are constantly surrounded by people and stuff.....this is a distraction. A distraction from being with ourselves. It's not a skill we are are born with. If it were there won't the word 'stir-crazy;. Also nothing able to socialize with others doesn't diminish our connectedness in anyways. I see socializing as another form of distraction for the most part. I am sure some of you will disagree with me vehemently. That's ok. But between you and I, you are the one who is going 'stir crazy' so perhaps you should just try it. If we understand that no matter where we are, we are always connected is a great feeling I have trained myself in. Feelings of love, care, empathy aren't things that we need from outside to inside to nourish us. They are qualities and stated of mind that (whether you believe or not) that comes first from within and then translates to the outside world. 

In world where we have placed so much on the outside, we have lost sight of the precious universe that lives within us. It can nourish us with love, companionship, empathy, kindness if we connect to it...that connectedness is what is creating the difficulties for most people. We are not connected within so we feel lost and isolated. If we find a way to make that connection whether we are with a group of people or alone we will always feel a sense of connection. At least to some degree.

I do hope people learn during this time and not just waste time complaining of what they can't have or don't have. Or worse wait in hope for a future that may or may not arrive. The time is now. Otherwise all the suffering that we have had to endure would be in vain. It'll only be a matter of time such a situation, and I am not talking about pandemics, would drive you crazy (perhaps not stir-crazy) and you'd be back to grumbling and complaining yet again, wishing for things to go away or hoping for a better day.