Chasing the Big Five

The Big Five are the Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Rhino and Buffalo. It’s what we came to see. I didn’t expect to see Rhino because it’s pretty rare. But on the first day our guides did try to chase a white Rhino. It’s tracks were there but we never came across it. Apparently the Rhino moves pretty fast. It can walk about 5km in 30 minutes. I thought that was pretty fast for a large creature but that’s part of the reason why it’s difficult to spot them. One minute they are here and next minute they are gone! Well perhaps we’ll see the Rhino another time on another trip. But we were very satisfied to spot the other 4 in abundance.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen that many lions and leopards in such a short duration. The leopard is harder to find than the lion apparently. So when we founds them on our first day at Savute it was jubilation. But then we spotted two in Pom Pom and another had killed a Lechwe and stuck it on top of a tree for security 😁 We saw its paw prints around the wall way to tenet but we don’t come across it. I won’t complain about it. I don’t think I’d like to walk into a leopard. As much as I love them and admire them, it has to be from the Jeep. Just too intimidating. Our guide Tabo is an experienced one who has been doing this for 22 years. He said he’d come across lions and leopards but you just give them space and never make them feel threatened or cornered. He said “remember they are just as much as scared of us as we are of them” No one wants an encounter. Anyways we didn’t have one and I was fine at that!

The leopard is very different to the lion. Of course we all know that but it’s always wonderful to see them in their own habitat. It’s much smaller in size. It’s paws are small and so is it’s head. They are avid climbers and solitary creatures who hunt on their own. Lions on the other hand are large and heavy looking.  They also command much respect by just being themselves! No wonder they are the kings of the jungle. The male lion is a treat to look at. Considering how intimidating and strong they are they behave just like our home cats. I think it’s adorable. Of course that’s as long as you are inside the Jeep. Tabo said if we just as much put a foot out, they will immediately charge the Jeep and attack everyone inside it 😲 well we didn’t test that. 😜

The elephant is everywhere. They have a matriarch. The matriarch is the oldest female in the herd. She leads everyone to water, food and safety. Young males who are born to the herd are chased after they become teenagers so they don’t inbreed with their sisters. The little elephants can’t use their trunks but have to learn to use it in time. I thought that was so cute. You can see them wagging and wriggling it like some alien thing stuck to the front of their face. It’s funny. Apparently the lion can kills baby elephants so the herd is very protective when there are lions around. 

The Buffalo is the ugliest of the big 5 and looks the meanest. They are apparently the most the dangerous and unpredictable. Unlikes all the others it’s not possible to read their body language, even to get out of the way when they seem annoyed or angry. For they look angry all the time. When you drive close they run away but only for a little distance and then stop and look back. All of them. With their big horned head turned keep looking for a while and then they lose interest. We saw a dead buffalo hunted by 4 lions and later on feasting on its intestines. Gruesome site but that’s what it is like. One of the lions pulled at the buffalo gut and the strength of its pull was so much that the entire buffalo was tossed left to right. You see them in herds comprised on hundreds. Apparently when the buffalo runs low on testosterone they move to a place where there is water and food and spent the rest of his life unless first eaten by elephants. Sometimes they group with other like single aging males and form a small group for security purposes. It’s always good to stick together for the security is in the numbers 😲😬 I guess some humans feel the same too 😅😜

So we saw 4 out of the big 5 on number of occasions. It was a treat to see them in the wild. The only interactions between them was seen at the waterhole when the lions came to drink water where the elephants usually hang out in the evening. We got to the waterhole and there was a large herd of elephants including some babies. A few minutes later 7 lions walked in a single file. Apparently animals walks in single files in the wild. So do the lions. As they walk you can see how unhappy the elephants became. The lions had one thing in mind and that was to drink water. They had killed a warthog earlier and how wanted to quench their thirst. They all sat together side by side drinking water. It was a site to behold. They did not threaten the elephants but the elephants felt unhappy and maybe even threatened. A couple of the young bulls seem to want to charge but never to cause a full on confrontation. The lions always moved away when an elephant charged but didn’t seem to want to escalates it further. But they never left the waterhole. Once elephants retreat they’d regroup and drink again. It was so funny to watch. It’s instinct that animals will not fight. Because there is a chance to get hurt or even killed. They will do that as a last resort. Isn’t that funny? I think humans differ because I feel we, the highly intelligent lot, fight even when we know we can get killed and get hurt for more trivial things. Anyways that would be a separate blog. 

Day 10/11 - The Dry Delta

When we were at Victoria falls we heard that there was little to no rain in Angola during their rain season. So the water flow in the falls was 25% less than normal. So we were told.But we couldn’t tell. It was just as magnificent as we thought it would be. The spray and the mist from the falls was so large that in some parts during our walk we literally got totally drenched. It was like raining buckets. 

But people here feel the difference. We felt it when we were flying over the Okavango Delta. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and is the largest inland delta in the world. It stretches over 15000 square kilometers. Our charter flight from Savuti to Pom Pom island gave us a 45 minute ride over the delta giving us magnificent views of it from the skies. It was wonderful and every bit as described in documentaries and on the net. We could also see how it’s dried up due to lack of water.

The place we were going to stay was called Pom Pom camp situated in the Pom Pom island, a private concession area in the heart of the delta. Usually the camp is surrounded by water. But this time was not so. The area was totally dry and the usual Mokoro rides, we were looking forward to experiencing, was no longer available because of the dry water ways and lagoons. We were somewhat disappointed. But the good thing is that more wildlife can be seen around as a result. Plus we were able to drive over areas which we could not have driven if there was water. So all in all it’s ok. You get some, you loose some. 

But one of the good sights on our last day of game drives was that we saw water coming in. The floods from Angola were making their way into the delta. Because the delta is flat it takes days, weeks and even months for the water to spread. The little canals dug by hippos are a help for the water to spread. But it will take at least a month, if at all, for the water to surround the camp, according to Pat the resident Manager. 

We also saw first hand the effect of lack of water has on wildlife. Hippos were having a hard time bathing. There were small little ponds that have become very muddy and stinky that provided crowded pools to many many hippos, fish and crocodile. The fish can be seen wriggling for water and space. Fish eagles were having a feast for they had easy prey. The crocodiles were out in the open. The elephants were being chased away by the hippos. There was also bush fires which was not very pleasant. 

But yet the wildlife seem to flourish. I don’t think the real effect of lack of water is felt yet. There were plenty of dried up lagoons and ponds that seem to still carry some moisture. On the last day of our game drives we saw that water was starting to come in from Angola floods. It was so very interesting to see how slowly but surely water seem to make its way into the little water ways, canals and ponds. We found a large pod of hippos in one of the large ponds/lakes that was recently created by the floods. There were hundreds and they seemed very happy to be in fresh water and not stinky, muddy and crowded puddles. 

So looks as if there is hope for the Delta. This has been a place we’ve been waiting to see. I must say what we experienced was beyond anything we could have wanted. There is a saying “you may leave Africa but Africa will ever leave you” and I think that will hold true for both of us.

Savuti to Pom Pom

Pom Pom was our last stop. Then we’d head back home. Again we boarded one of those tiny flights. This time we had a couple who were with us at Savuti and the woman was someone with bad air sickness. The ride was a bit bumpy and we had to make a stop to drop them off at another camp before we headed to ours. There were wildfires ablaze in the Okavango delta. Apparently it was a dry delta due to lack of rain. 

But we loved getting a glimpse of the delta from up above. The planes don’t climb a lot so you can see things pretty well. The ride was about 40 minutes. Must say that I wasn’t still totally happy with the tiny planes but ‘gotta do what you gotta do’ 

As usual our guides were waiting to pick us up from the airstrip. This time there were two Tabo (and different one, plump and short) and Jonas. He was the tracker.

Pom Pom camp is an island. But because of dryness this time there was no water. That also meant we couldn’t do ‘mokoru’ rides. It’s a luxury camp. The main area includes the sitting, reception, dinning and camp fire. It’s open to the wild and the wilderness. Animals if they chose to can walk right through the main hall. 

Then comes spread to left and right are the camps. The entire place occupies about 12 -15 people. The camps are more like luxury cabins. Built on stilts since on water, the structure is made of wood and then the walls are all made of material. The shower is an out door one. So we realized there was no way to shower in the night because the temperature drops so much and even though it might be hot water you’d catch a cold in a hurry and I was having a really bad sore throat. 

In the night you can hear the sounds of hyena, elephants and all kinds. Unlike in Savuti this place is in the middle of the park with no fences or walls. So you truly are at the mercy of the park. We clearly heard elephants just around the tent we were in. Here the escorts were only in the night. In the morning we had to walk by ourselves. One day we found leopard footprint right along the path we were walking. On a previous day there was a bush buck carcass was left on a branch of a tree couple of tents from ours. So we knew a leopard was on the premise. It was half eaten. Must say a few minutes walk felt like forever. 

I think we really liked this place because it was the closest to nature and the animals we could get. As scary as it was I might do it again, given the chance. 

Savuti Safari

Savuti was flat dry land. Sand was from the Namibi desert and you get a good jolt when you sit in the back seats. We kind of liked it and it’s perched up so you get a good view. The first day in Savuti we saw a lioness and a well fed leopard. That was the first time we saw a real lion and leopard in the wild and it simply takes your breath away. 

Why people want to go hunting for them is beyond inhuman and cruel. They are beautiful, majestic creatures simply getting about their own business. They mean no harm unless they are threatened. And why is that so different to us? We are a species that mean harm even when we aren’t threatened. So we are essentially the crazy animals. 

So the lioness was sitting on an ant hill and Tabo saw it. She just sat there without any fear or aggression. Just got up so she could adjust her sitting posture. But otherwise totally oblivious to an entire four wheel drive full of nutty humans (6) watching her in total silence with flickering cameras. Of course the guide would say a thing or two about the animal and The crazy thing is that these creatures though they are wild, look well groomed. Their costs shine in the light, not mattted at all. Their faces unless covered in blood from a hunt look perfect. They are also never out of shape. Perhaps towards the leaner side but we never came an obese one. Later in the evening we came across the leopard. It was well hidden in the bushes with a bulging tummy.  

We spent a lot of time. I think we were the last Jeep to leave. And it was well after the leopard got up and walked for some distance out in the open before disappearing. But we followed him right next to it and got some amazing pictures and videos. My husband had the professional camera so I had plenty of time for my eyes to take things in and I made sure I gave myself that time. I didn’t want to spend my time looking at things through a lens. 

So I was fortunate to make eye contact with a lion and leopard. Boy that scary and I just couldn’t sustain it because of fright. They have sharp stares. The lions eyes are like an orange shade where as one of the leopards had steely grey ones. I love them.

Another day we were watching elephants at the waterhole and a half a pride of lions (about 8) turned up after a kills and made their way to the hole for some water. The elephant herd was not pleased. They had going ones. But their didn’t dare start a fight and neither were the lions interested in a fight either. The elephants gathered one side and the lions on another. From time to time the elephants came trumpeting with their trunks up in the air as if were to charge...but it was only to warn. The lions would back away but no sooner father again and start lapping at the water. It was hilarious. But also made us appreciate how intuitively they are smart to defend only. 

One of the most interesting creatures is the wilder-beast. It looks like something from Harry Potter. I had seen them on countless documentaries but had completely forgotten until I saw. The first time we came across them was from a distance and I was the first to notice and Tabo moved a bit closer. But they don’t stay still. 

Another day we came across the lions preparing to hunt. They are barely visible in the brown grass, but from time to time little blobs move. Well spread apart.

Another day we came across the same group while chasing a honey badger. They were simply playing with each other, we followed them the entire morning. It’s funny how they walk in single file. Apparently for protection. 

Of we saw many other wildlife too but most travel to Africa to see the Big 5. And we have been 4 by now excluding the Rhino. We also missed cheetah. For another day perhaps ....

Day 9 & 10 (Savuti)

I am writing this day 9/10 entry today as I sit in lockdown. As I was going through my notes from last year I realised that I had opened note pages but had not made any entries...but that's okay. Because I remember the events as clearly as today....at least the once I am about to write. 

So Tabo was to be our guide during our stay at Savuti. He was older, thinner but seems kinder. Had a weather-beaten look on him but has the best smile. Tabo apparently meant 'lion' according to him. I didn't doubt him. 

The Lodge at Savuti was one of a kind, luxurious one. We wanted to stay here...just because we could. It was limited accommodation. We got to know a family from the US with three of their grown children and their spouses (well except one)...then there was a couple from UK who had travelled in Africa extensively. They loved telling their stories at night around the campfire just before dinner and drinking lots of wine....I don't think they were really interested in listening. After the first time, I kind of stayed away from them....I simply wanted to absorb the African nights, its sounds and sights. I did't want to listen to second hand narrative. 

After the first night, a newly married couple from California joined. They were young. Then there was a man and a woman traveling together but not together...if you know what I mean. They were older. These four were assigned to our vehicle for day 2 & 3. They were very talkative. But what's interesting is that you cannot have your mouth opened for too long without the dessert sand getting in your nose, throat and wherever open. I think they got quite a bit of it in the first day that they were all having bad cough by the second. Ranil and I had a good laugh....it was funny. 

Our days were scheduled. We get up early morning at 5.30am. Get down for a quick bite by 6.15. Then off at 7 am looking for wildlife. It's freezing at night in Botswana. So you need to cover up life for winter with the early morning wind and sand. Need to over ears, nose and mouth as well. We get blankets and hot water bottles to keep ourselves warm for the first couple of ours of the day. Then the day warms up by about 9am. We get back by 11am for brunch. It's a sumptuous meal followed by exchanging stories of the morning outing. Then off to our cabins for much needed showers and rest. You literally don't have time for showers in the morning. Then we sometimes napped until 3.00pm when we get high tea and off we went on the evening game drive which lasted till about 6.30/7, depending on who you were chasing and who you encountered on the way. Once home, we are escorted to our cabins for cleaning before dinner. Even though Savuti lodge was secured by an electric fence, the guides still take us to our rooms at night and come for a pick up in the morning. The lodge is deep in the Chobe national park home to the Big 5 and all other wildlife. We are simply in their territory and no-one takes a chance. I get that. Then we have drinks by the campfire and exchange stories and also watch animals that come to the waterhole. The night sky is so clear that you can see the stars so clearly. Then some entertainment from the staff, followed by a delicious meal and off to bed soon after.

This is a typical safari day. We loved it, except for the sand. But that's a small price to pay for the beauty that surrounds you. It literally is so vast and quiet that you really don't need to talk much, except for the fact that most humans aren't capable of keeping their mouths shut. The first night we were at Savuti, we woke up in the middle the night to the sounds of lions roaring. It was like thunder. Distant but distinct. The guides said the lions could have been a few miles away. Well they are loud and ferocious. It is also bloody freezing at night. There is no heating only blankets and the draft from the roof gave me a cold after the second day. It was nasty. Coupled with sand and dust it became a bad sore throat which lasted until I got back to the States. But I lived to tell te stories so it seems unimportant looking back. 

Day 8/9 (Kasane to Savuti)

We had to fly a 5 seater charter flight from Kasane to Savuti. It was the tiniest plane we had ever flown. I was a bit nervous. I get nervous flying period. A small plane didn’t put my mind at ease at all. But what choice do I have. So we got on. Well before we were to take off the pilot said the begging was a bit bumpy but he would climb a bit to make it smooth. After about 10 minutes I thought perhaps he forgot to do that climb after all. It was bumpy and I think partly it was because we were used to flying in small planes. Apart from the pilot and the two of us there was one local who was flying to a different hotel. She didn’t seem bothered by it at all. So I kind of assumed this must be typical for a charter although it failed to put my mind at ease. I tried to play a game to get my mind off of it but that didn’t works because of the wobble. Then I resorted to my meditation practice of watching my feelings. That was the only way I could fly the rest of the 20 minutes out of a 40 minute ride. 

Being with my emotions be it positive or negative helps quite a bit. I’ve trained myself over the years and I find that it’s more comforting than to get distracted. In fact distraction doesn’t work for me much. It’s like being told a lie when you know it’s a lie. Just doesn’t work. So I prefer the bitter truth. Even if it’s hard it’s better to be with it than tell a lie and feel worse twice over. 

Surprisingly the landing was smooth. The airstrip was a gravel one and I literally thought we were landing ahead of the runway. Well there is a first time for everything I guess. I was just happy land in one piece and happy that I didn’t get sick. But we have two more charter flights ahead of us. Perhaps it’s best to have had some experience flying in these teeny tiny planes, which get tossed about by the wind. 

It also made me think how much trust we place in others and things. I don’t think we quite realize it. If we did, some of us might freak out and some of us might feel grateful. We also have some great videos that will remind us of this for a long time time...or until the next time. 

Chobe Food Drama

The stay at the Marina lodge in Chobe got off to a not so good start. Our in room locker didn’t work and we had to change rooms giving us barely enough time to catch our afternoon boat ride. To make matters worse Ranil didn’t like the food that was there for lunch. He likes his food and doesn’t appreciate when he doesn’t get it considering he’s paid a premium price.

The evening food was good for me but Ranil said the prawns were just like what they had in the afternoon. Also the lady who was serving the table messed up his drinks order and that didn’t go down well.

By the second day evening, he was really not happy. He had complained to the front office about the food. Then in the evening there was no buffet instead they were serving ala carte in the restaurant. We had better hopes, I guess. Cause we were throughly disappointed. In fact without my knowing Ranil complained to our travel agent. 

Things really went down hill from there because I got stomach flu. Had diarrhea a couple of times in the morning along with a slight fever. I had to skip my afternoon game drive that day. So everything got escalated and we were to leave the next day to Savuti anyways. 

The worse for me was not that. Neil our travel agent had spoken to the hotel and asked that the GM meet and apologize to us to next day before we left. He had also demanded a full refund. But the duty manager who is a woman and who was nice enough to take the complaints. So she comes and tells us that the GM isn’t able to talk to us because he isn’t wearing his uniform, whatever that is. 

I thought that was not really nice of him. After all he is responsible for the hotel and he should t leave his staff to take all the heat. Anyways that was that. I had one more bad poop and I’ve been fine since, thank goodness. We were to fly a charter that day and I didn’t think I could do it in a bad tummy. But all worked out well and we were able to leave the “issues” behind.